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The storefront.

Twelve seats, one long counter, and a fryer working since 4 AM.

A wire fryer basket rests over the golden oil in a commercial deep fryer, its mesh coated with fried-on golden residue

Morning at the fryer

Fried fresh every morning, one small batch at a time. The process is four steps and no shortcuts.

  1. The dough proofs overnight.
  2. Cut and fried in small batches through 10 AM.
  3. Glazed, sugared, or filled the minute they cool.
  4. In the case by 6, sold out soon after.
A flour-dusted baker's hands press a round of dough on a workbench, metal bowl and white tile behind

If it is in the case, it came out of the fryer this morning. Yesterday's batch went to the shelter at two.

Nina Okafor, Owner + Fry Boss

Nina Okafor lit the fryers at 4 AM on Maple Row for the first time in 2011. Fifteen years later the scale is honest: 1,800 dozen a week out of one small kitchen, the rotating feature announced at 5 AM on the chalkboard, and yesterday's case delivered to the shelter at two.

The counter crew

Dee Alvarez, Coffee Lead

Dee runs the espresso bar: the pour-over rotation, the steam wand at dawn, and the regulars' orders memorized.

Four on weekdays, six on Saturdays.

Find the counter

12 Maple Row, Portland, ME 04102

(207) 555-0180

[email protected]

Counter hours

Monday to Friday, 6:00 AM to 2:00 PM

Weekends, 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM

Call ahead by 8 AM for same-day holds.